It is
an old-time habit brought in by the Southern China sojourners and Cantonese
migrants, an obscure culture intertwined with secret codes and silent etiquettes.
It is a banquet of dainty bite-sized cuisine served in bamboo steamed baskets
or tiny white porcelain plates, a celebration where sharing of food is the norm
and tea pouring for others is a convention. A gesture of knuckles tapping
conveys the most heartfelt appreciation, and leaving a teapot lid ajar is a polite
request for tea refill. This is the Yum Cha custom, a Chinese heritage almost
equivalent to the Spanish Tapas and Japanese Izakaya tradition.
The
city of Melbourne has no lack of interesting venues for such Dim Sum
extravaganza. Most are simple restaurant establishments practising lightning
quick service, where customers are ushered urgently to their seats and
pre-cooked food is placed haphazardly on the table without giving the patrons a
chance for breath. Waiters are usually rude and abrupt. Dish presentation
varies, quality of food wavers like the unpredictable Melbourne’s weather. High
customer turnover is the priority of each day. Bills are sent over in arrow
speed, but no time could be spared for customer feedback.
Just
when we are about to get used to the complacent treatment, lukewarm service and
the occasional mediocre food, Secret Kitchen arrives as a keen contestant and
well-qualified rival. Within a few months since its commencement of business in
the CBD, the swanky-looking double storey restaurant has evolved from an
unknown newbie to a well-known eatery jam- packed with patrons. Reputation
spread and popularity gained, yet the service remains attentive, albeit with an
added touch of rough efficiency common to most Chinese restaurants.
The
Dim Sum at Secret Kitchen is a harmonious rendezvous of traditional craft and
modern twists. Its shrimp dumplings are an art piece of translucent crystal,
mysterious darkness and striking red; its Dja Leung is an atypical creation of
gold (fried crullers) and green (Chinese vegetables) snuggled within the sexily
slippery Cheong Fan. Deep-fried glutinous rice dumplings were delicately served
in pearl white, curved-handle duck spoons; crispy spring rolls were elegantly
placed in contemporary glass vase like two seductive Cuban cigars.
The usual
pan-fried turnip cakes, steamed glutinous rice in lotus leaf, and braised
phoenix claws were served alongside the unusual squid ink steamed buns and cute
red-bean paste piglet Bao. My personal favourites are durian puff and green tea
osmanthus cake. Both are awesome desserts with smart blend of distinctive flavours,
a perfect pair of pungent creaminess and bittersweet fragrance. The Hong Kong
style egg tarts and runny custard bun are authentically spot-on and definitely
well recommended.
At a
time when myriad of Dim Sum places are mushrooming around the town and when
customers’ loyalty is constantly being taken granted for, dining at Secret
Kitchen is a rare refreshing experience. Price wise, it is slightly above
average on the spectrum (most dishes are priced at $8.80 or above). Yet taking
into consideration of the food quality and the warm atmosphere, Secret Kitchen
is a true winner by virtue of comparison, at least for now.
Location:
222
Exhibition Street, Melbourne, VIC 3000
Website:
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